as someone who describes her own style as "urban androgyne", fashion designers who claim to embody the androgynous ideal always strike my fascination. there are at least two sides to fashion epicenism: first, combining feminine and masculine elements in order to create a somewhat balanced symbiosis of both and, second, dressing up in garments that are undecipherable as either feminine/masculine and/or that create a gender unapparent look.
our cultural heritage of regarding the male as the representative and exemplar human shows in how fashion considers gender ambiguous style: often androgynous women's fashion has meant dressing up in men's clothes and hiding feminine bodily signifiers. as a perfect paragon, hedi slimane era dior homme suit is still my dreamwear, but i do realize that one probably would not fit my curvature. although the epitomical le smoking mastered by ysl is a curve conscious reconstruction of menswear, androgynous dressing more often than not relies on having the body of a little waify boy. while i believe that the true feminine form comes in everything from flat-packed to erupting volume as equally womanly, an androgynous fashion line does not fulfill its purpose if it cannot suit both straight lines and some curve.
brands like complex geometries provide an easy association. their collection is almost fully unisex and created to suit different body shapes in ways many clothing brands only envision in their brand strategies. flowing cotton and wool knits provide a versatile basis for transforming a garment conformable to various bodies, but creating a unisex line with more constructed pieces is definitely more challenging.
therefore, i was happy to stumble into chrønicles øf never, the utilitarian, androgynous and (mostly) unisex line from gareth moody. the designer was one of the founders of tsubi (now ksubi), the indie and fashion credible surfer denim brand from australia, but took his own leap of faith in 2005. his collections from 2006 onwards are anything but the surfing beach bum type: they're as urban, architecture inspired as contemporary collections can be. a full line of clothing, shoes and accessories, the con (pun intended, supposedly) offers a full selection of goods i could imagine wearing. additionally, the website is a real gem: beautiful both visually and textually.
the appeal of the unisex imagery comes hand-in-hand with other aesthetic presumptions of mine. both aforementioned brands repeat certain styles and claim not to follow trends: their continuation is not based on accumulation and seasonal transformation as the fundamental core of style and fashion, that is, they do not evolve based on "reinvention" i.e. on creating new needs in their customers for yet more stuff. the topic of desire generation is something i want to return to, but here i'll settle for pointing out that, against the fashion world status quo, i believe it to be unnecessary to both love fashion and to accept the norm of new trend seasons after another. i don't yearn for static fashion or a slow fashion movement alongside all the other nauseating slow life trends, but a more cohesive appreciation of apparel as expression.
despite closing on sounding blasphemous, i will repeat myself from my posting on glasses: i consider my style "thoughtfully complete". the shivering the expression creates implies that i have devoured the consumer credo of fashion as a neverending process of desires like a slippery oyster. the utterance sounds self-satisfied and, most importantly, very unfashionable. admittedly, style completion does not imply an end to consuming, but it sometimes seems that once you're "done" personal fashion talk becomes futile. this urban androgyne is all but done, but i welcome the eradication of all the pre- and the cruise lines.
what do you say: does the amount of spewed out new trends overwhelm you? or do you love the fact that fashion never stops, but always recreates itself?